Meyer/Wiik ruta

1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
 6

Adjacent Routes
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The first (and still the only) route on the cliff featuring some fine crack climbing in its upper reaches.
1) 4+, 35m. Scrambling up the narrow ledge system to reach the ramp system which begins on the pillar’s right side. Climb the ramp for 20 metres, then continue past a big block on the left to a stance on a tiny ledge.
2) 5-, 30m. Climb a hand crack above the belay, up a left-facing groove and through a small overhang to a large grassy ledge.
3) 6, 45m. Climb the wall to the base of a right-facing groove above. Up this for 5 metres, then continue straight up the face above to reach the next corner. Climb up this for 7 metres then making an unprotected traverse out right to the next belay.
4) 6, 40m. After a delicate start up a shallow groove traverse right 5 metres to a grassy groove. Climb this past a bulge to a right-leaning jamming crack which leads to a stance.
5) 6, 35m. Ascend the impressive right-facing corner above the stance. After a “wicked off-width” at the top of the pitch, belay on another good ledge on the right.
6) 4, 45m. From the right end of the ledge, climb a chimney leading to easier ground. Belay at the end of the steep section.
Descent - scramble (grade 3 or 4) to the summit of Svolen (446m/1,463’), then follow a ridge towards Fløya (590m/1,935’) until you reach an obvious, easy angled grassy gully that brings you back down to the road in about 45 minutes.
FA. Arild Meyer, Odd-Roar Wiik.5.8, 1994

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