The Lord of the Dance

3 Stars
 E7 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Professor of Desire < Blue Afternoon  |  The Sheep Spider > Dolly >>

A mammoth undertaking girdling the Main Wall along the upper Intermittent break. Not marked on the topo.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb Bolt from the Blue to the peg under the roof at the top of the left-facing groove on its second pitch. Belay.
2) 6b, 25m. Traverse rightwards to Priaprism and descend this until it is possible to access Central Wall at a spike. Climb up, right and then up again to the threads on Barracuda. Sustained climbing leads to a hanging-belay on Stairway to Heaven.
3) 6c, 20m. Move along to The Great White from which very difficult climbing gains a good pocket (good wire in next pocket - difficult to place). Move down before moving across and then up Blue Water, White Death (wires) - all extremely difficult. Continue to an awkward belay on a peg and thread.
4) 6b, 30m. More traversing eventually leads to the tree on Blue Afternoon. Abseil off.
FA. Pete Gomersall, Mick Lovatt 1987. First continuous ascent Ian Vickers, Gareth Parry 1995


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