Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
The steep centre of the undercut buttress is strenuous through the roofs to a delicate mantelshelf reaching easier ground and some fine flaky jugs. Be aware of suspect rock under the roof.
The line in the guide is too far L (esp the upper section). Very nice climbing
Proper sandbag unless like the above comment says the topo is wrong. Desperate mantel above a crap friend E1 at least?
I suspect the topo is wrong too.
HVS 5a. Bold move to get great hand holds and great camming gear before mantle.
took a bit of working out ,but hvs .ignore the red herring hold out left above the lip
Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulge to unexpectedly disappointing gear under the big roof(!) Bold move up to good jams and cams then a scary mantleshelf. I'd give it E1 5b.
I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see what you are heading for. The crux is definately the mantle but you should have stuffed the break with good friends befor committing.