Julay lama Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Quasimodo < Suspiros nostálgicos  |  Floja y pendulona > Coxy's climb >>


A stunning climb taking on the massive slab.
1) 27m, 4+. Move up to the high first bolt and continue past a steepening to easier ground and a stance with a lower-off.
2) 25m, 5+. Climb up the wall and take the last section past the final two bolts well to their right.

USER COMMENTS

Very easy. did in 1 pitch and the crux is on the 4+ pitch. The whole route should be graded 4.
craig devonshire - 02/Apr/09

I didn't find it so easy! First pitch only 4 bolts in 25 meters and could be V+. 6 bolts in the second pitch and could be 6a, even going to the right of the bolts in the crux.
Pere Carreras - 05/Apr/09

Missed out 2nd from last bolt on second pitch - I onsight 6B. Bolt is badly placed or the grade is too low (I'm 5ft7ins). Lower pitch is 4+, but the bolts don't inspire confidence. Good route but not top 50.
Ian - 19/Apr/09

this didn't seem dangerous at all to me as the spaced bolts are on easy ground and the harder moves have bolts exactly where you need them - though the hardest move on the climb is the stretch out left to clip
alan - 29/Apr/09

Grades are right but bolts are quite widely spaced on P1 and the 2nd last bolt on P2 is a long stretch out left.
Nick Gregory - 07/May/09

P1 4+ correct and safe, P2 5+ generous; clipping second last bolt is long reach (5' 10"), but not essential for safety (if you move out right).
Graham Arthur - 19/Oct/10

I thought my grade was plummeting when I got to the last two bolts, looked about 6b, so mad e a right move that was in keeping with the grade, great rout, did you meet the Dog on the way in (and out).
Stuart Tyrrell - 11/Jun/12

P1 is very run-out, P2 better bolted. However, the line on P2 provides several options at the top. Staying right is soft touch 5+, but going straight on with a reachy move up and right to an incut jug before stepping back right is probabably 6a/a+, and certainly better climbing.
John Cuthbert - 03/Dec/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.