Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 22
A brilliant route with a hard start and culminating in a pumpy finish. Start midway between two black streaks. A rogue bolt out left is off line.
Was hard before the undercut and thread broke. With the direct it must be worth 7c?
Certainly painful! I thought more than a '+' harder than Cruisin' since it has: a more difficult start; a similar pumpy finish with further to go between some of the holds; and a crux.
Felt 7C to me. You cannot down climb from the second bolt and redpoint it up the easy groove of Cruisin like a certain guidebook writer is supposed to have done. 7b+ if you do this start and miss out the hard direct start.
The crux of the route is the start up to the second bolt. As has been said, the only way you would reverse from here is if you climbed using holds on the route to the right i.e. reaching in from the start of CFAB.