Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
28m. A long pitch starting from the arete and moving right on to the face. There is a second pitch but the bolts are older.
Very hard start with akward moves. Use of clipstick recommended. Nice slab to the top. Last bolt collected some rust but still ok. Roughly 6m run--out to the belay. Belay is total rubbish. Three rusty selfmade rings with old M8 screws. 2 loose and one still tight. Used some cordalette and a biner to get down safe.
The start is very comitting to on sight. I agree - an improvised clipstick makes a difference here or do what I did first time round and come in slightly from the right (with wires).
agreed about nasty start