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22m. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below the chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky but the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties. Thin moves on side-pulls with the nagging question as to whether you clip the bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height.
FA. Ron Fawcett 1985. Malham's first 8a and also one of the first in the UK. A magnificent effort which has stood the test of time. "Nearly 8a+" Steve McClure - OTE 2003.
A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this.
All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too!
The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating!
John Cooke - 16/Apr/07
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