Gargoyle Flake

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Terrace Trog < Old Wall  |  Gargoyle Gully Left > Gargoyle Gully Right >>

The delicate slabby arete, or the face just left, leads to a ledge. Access the flake and a dramatic finish that will find you swinging by the gargoyles. Variations are inferior. Photographed a thousand times, almost aways from the cliff top to the right with the reservoir in the background.
FA. Pete Hatton 1963


The initial arete is quite tricky and serious if tackled head on.
Graham - 29/Jan/02

The initial arete is all you'd expect from a VS 4c and there is a nice 5a variation start on a juggy rib a metre right for those who prefer a harder test.
Steve C - 12/Oct/03

the arete is a bit sparse protection-wise but not bad climbing. getting established on the flake is definiteyl the crux and feels quite committing
SidH - 31/Oct/04

Totally enjoyable climbing with an excellent layback in the middle...just comes to end all too quickly.
Shaun Walby - 28/Mar/05

Superb fun. A bit awkward low down, but soon the massive holds just keep on coming
Chris the Tall - 13/May/05

Ace route. The start felt like the crux and putting gear behind the big flake is awkward but once it's in you can just enjoy the romp up the rest of the line.
Julie Mair - 03/Jun/07

great postion on the gargoyle ,run it out for full effect !
nick whelan - 18/Jun/07

I did this climb in very strong wind, i didn't like the block low down but found the rest of the climb excellent.
Paul Tomo - 24/Jul/07

Got psyched up for the overhang at the top only to find it was much easier than it looked.
James Cox - 23/May/08

Didn't bother with any gear on the arete so when it came to getting up under the flake I had an arsetwitch moment and bellyflopped it. That'll learn me. Rest of the route was nice, loved cranking up the flake.
Dave Foster - 15/Jul/08

Had to take a moment on the ledge below the layback after the obvious belly flop move!
SJW - 11/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 161
    hard HVS 0 of 54
    HVS 0 of 54
    easy HVS 0 of 54
    hard VS 3 of 54
    VS 39 of 54
    easy VS 12 of 54
    hard HS 0 of 54
    HS 0 of 54
    easy HS 0 of 54
    hard 5a 0 of 54
    5a 0 of 54
    easy 5a 0 of 54
    hard 4c 2 of 54
    4c 28 of 54
    easy 4c 15 of 54
    hard 4b 8 of 54
    4b 1 of 54
    easy 4b 0 of 54
    3 Stars 38 of 53
    2 Stars 14 of 53
    1 Star 1 of 53
    0 Stars 0 of 53
    Bag of ..... 0 of 53

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