Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 37
12m. A four-bolt route which is probably only 7b to the third bolt and a mini-rest. Then it gets tough! Very bouldery.
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7b to the third bolt, 8a to the top. Very bouldery and powerful crux moves to reach the belay. High in the grade.
you simply cannot vote for this route to have 3 stars. It's a plod to a boulder problem with no real finish.
still not topped out then, Joe?
Crux is where it should be, at the top. An excellent contrast to routes such as Energy Vampire, Chiselling and Magnetic with low cruxes and slightly anticlimatic finishes. At top get into twin undercuts and clip the dodgy ring bolt. Then do stupid yard on quickdraw up to real belay! Belay needs lowering by 50cm or so to be clippable from undercuts, the last holds on the route.
So is this the finish of this route?
Yes I believe it is. The topo of the 1990 Yorkshire limestone rockfax clearly shows energy vampire and connect 4 both finishing at the above mentioned undercuts at a separate belay positioned where you clip the ring bolt. Overnite is shown as finishing at its own belay a good metre higher up and left. Northern Limestone appears be wrong in showing all these 3 routes finishing at the belay of overnite. If the moves up to the overnite belay from the undercuts of connect 4 are climbable I would love to know how!!
They are Ted. Not done it, but it's called connect 5 (8a+).
in Oct 04 both steve Maclure and myself finished this route at The Overnite belay by slightly different sequences giving a better 8a+ and one now that could be called Connect 5. Why it ever finished just clipping off the undercuts is strange, but its not really that hard to go one bolt higher.
Cool hopefully this can be amended in the next guido?? I still think its not poss to go directly from the undercuts straights to the overnite belay as there are no holds to pull on above the undercuts...really, I have looked. Possibly u traversed a little leftwards almost into Overnite itself before moving up?