Ozu! Esto como es?

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Cantolandia < Fisuras armoniosas  |  Poderio vertical > Despo Wall >>


35m. A huge pitch that tackles the blanker section of the wall towards its right-hand side. The pitch can be split at a lower-off and stance at 9m (the same one as on Fisuras armoniosas).

USER COMMENTS

Very pleasant for the first half, and then it gets completely blank. Even at 6'4" I couldn't reach across - maybe I should have gone horizontal rather than diagonal, but both holds were full of grass and weeds. Another large span seems to be required at the top. My guess is that the route is at least 6c, and only possible if you have a big wing span
chris_moor - 19/Jan/09

A nice, sustained route with a committing reach and traverse left from the niche (managed it ok at 6ft). There were plants in the cracks but the holds were still good. Doesn't ease up much above.
Tim Gledhill - 26/Mar/09

Excellent, the reach & traverse was fine for me @ 5ft7ins. Didn't notice grass & weeds.
Ian - 19/Apr/09

Slightly unbalanced with one hard span, nowhere near as good as Fisuras Armoniosas.
Neil Stabbs - 03/Jan/10

I thought this was the best of a brilliant bunch of routes. The step-across was sensational tho well-protected. It was a very long reach (I'm 5'9") but at 6b it's not supposed to be easy! 60m rope adequate for all of these routes if you use the easy ledges.
Iain White - 29/Mar/11

Going low when spanning across at the crux worked for me
Charles Moreton - 15/Mar/13

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