Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 60
12m. A famous 8a which is becoming very polished. Sustained climbing with a draining move to the belay. Only tick this if you get the belay without a draw in.
A legitimate ascent doesn't include dubious use of a jug out right, this is merely a 7C+ variant.
The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a.
This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a.
Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over.
Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it.