Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 48
12m. The steep wall above an undercut, stepped flake.
Grate Start to a rounded middle and tricky top half. I remember sone good tuther climbing up there.
A good route with two distinct sections. The frist bolt is a little tricky to clip.
The good part of the top flake from which you clip the fourth bolt now lies in the beck. This makes the top a bit more wobbly
Now that the flake before the last bolt has broken (but not completely), the move is quite a bit tougher than it previously was. The good finger lock has gone and a flared pinch is left. The route is still 7b but now middle of the grade as opposed to bottom.
The consensus at the crag last week seemed to be that the route is now 7b+
No way, if anything should be 7b+ it should be seventh aardvark. I think seventh is a notch harder than wasted.
Both Seventh and Wasted are hard 7b. Compare to a proper 7b+'s (Obsession, Space Race) and you see what I mean. Seventh and Wasted aren't even as hard as Toad of Beck Hall!
If any 7b were to be upgraded on the right I would say Bongo Fury.
agree with Neil Binns' order of things, and obsession and space race are way above Wasted, 7th, and Something Stupid