Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
A brilliant but testing bit of balancy climbing. High in the grade and be prepared for small, spaced protection. Traverse rightwards to the arete, and climb it on its left side.
Hard move at the start, after which things ease considerably. Used to be E1 but tbh it's not a difficult HVS. Fantastic climbing and position.
The gear is indeed micro wires, but isn't "spaced" and no real need for a fluttery symbol. Mid HVS 5a.
I'm pretty sure the fluttery symbol is there becuase there's no gear for the first 20 feet. After the break there's enough small gear to relax a bit. Lovely climbing in a fine position
E1 if you start straight up the arete with 5a climbing and an ankle-mashing fall if you cock it up; HVS if you come in from the left. Either way it's a mini technical classic.