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An ancient classic; an excellent yet daunting prospect. A rockfall at the start makes the first pitch’s grade a little uncertain.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up the groove to the chimney above, and continue to an overhang, move left to belay in a slot cave (possible belay to reduce drag). Climb out and traverse leftwards, to gain the base of a small chimney. Move up to belay.
3) 5b, 20m. Move up to the big roof above, then traverse strenously leftwards until beneath a flared crack. Battle your way up this feature to reach a scoop; trend rightwards to finish.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Chris King 3.5.78
P1 is 5a; a great pitch, HVS climbing in an E5 situation.
Neither Rockfax nor the CC guide mention that P2 has a flared chimney-offwidth. Large cams (Friend 5/6) would be reassuring here. Smaller protection (large Hex, Friend 4) is available in the back of the flare but the rock is a little dirty here and this gear felt a little untrustworthy.
duncan - 16/Aug/10
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