Oranges and Lemons
<< Break of Dawn < Leap Frog | Utter Anarchy > Puritan >>
This superb piece of climbing tackles the centre of the burnt-orange wall, found under the huge upper roof stack.</br>1) 6c, 32m. Climb brown scoops to tiny ledges beneath a smooth wall, then move right and ascend twin cracks to a break. Tackle the bulge above, move left to the main crackline, and climb this to better holds in a break; move up and right to a nut/thread belay below the roofs.</br>2) 6b, 10m. Traverse rightwards, and crank through the roofs above to gain the groove left of Puritan. Follow this more easily to the top.
FA. Martin Crocker 30.8.87