Oranges and Lemons
| E6 6c|
<< Break of Dawn < Leap Frog | Utter Anarchy > Puritan >>
This superb piece of climbing tackles the centre of the burnt-orange wall, found under the huge upper roof stack.
1) 6c, 32m. Climb brown scoops to tiny ledges beneath a smooth wall, then move right and ascend twin cracks to a break. Tackle the bulge above, move left to the main crackline, and climb this to better holds in a break; move up and right to a nut/thread belay below the roofs.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse rightwards, and crank through the roofs above to gain the groove left of Puritan. Follow this more easily to the top.
FA. Martin Crocker 30.8.87