Utter Anarchy

3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
 E6 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Leap Frog < Oranges and Lemons  |  Puritan > Consolation >>

More exceptional climbing, doing battle with the smooth face to the right of Oranges and Lemons. Take plenty of microwires.
1) 6c, 30m. Climb a short crack, then move slightly left to pass a roof; gain the break, dive rightwards into a groove, and climb it to an obvious projecting hold. Stand on this, and climb up to another break, then move right and ascend a thin crack to gain the stance.
2) 6b, 10m. As for Oranges and Lemons.
FA. Martin Crocker 29.8.87

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