| E5 6b|
<< Condor < Stackpole Grooves | None > None >>
Ace. A crack(ing) first pitch is followed by the stonking arete above. Start from the huge boulder.
1) 6b, 15m. Step over to reach a tiny pod, and make hard moves to gain a vertical slot. Use this to span leftwards to a crack, and press on to gain a horizontal crack, then the ledge above.
2) 6a, 15m. Climb into the corner, then break out leftwards to climb the right side of the hanging arete - bold moves finally give you a slim finishing groove. Belay 10m back.
FA. Martin Crocker 20.9.87
The topo shown in the Rockfax guide is of a completely different route!
Adam Adamant is on the south facing wall, some 20 metres away. It is currently missing its crucial thread. It would not be possible to locatethe line without the CC guide. The west-facing line taken by the Rockfax topo is Water Off a Duck's Back. it is given E3 4a,6a in the current CC Guide with a warning that it's been affected by rockfall. Frank Thomson and I replaced the insitu threads and reclimbed it. The first move on the second pitch is now very bold and we thought worth E4.
How did the guidebook writers mess up so badly?
John Alcock - 16/Aug/10
The route of Adam Adamant is on the facing wall to that shown in the book, but we found the description to be accurate enough to locate the route without a topo (just!).
A good route with a tough and crimpy first pitch.
It is best located by looking up at the second pitch and finding the arete with a slim finishing groove.
Step off the large boulder to gain huge jugs and a large round pod. From this move to a tiny pod then up right to a short vertical slot/crack (hand sized cam). Span left to sidepulls and truck straight up to the large ledge (bomber insitu thread and good nut belay).
The pitch is protected mainly by good but hard-won small wires. Didn't see anywhere for a crucial missing thread, or find one to be needed.
Second pitch - step right from the ledge in to the corner, follow this for a couple of moves then move out left to the arete and follow this in to the shallow finishing groove. Nice moves to gain the groove. Small wires can be wiggled in at several points but the pitch has a bold and airy feel. Nut belay on the edge.
jack geldard - 27/Sep/10
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