The Anti Matterhorn

3 Stars
Strong
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< The One-eyed Man < The Abyss  |  Alien World/Blind Vision > Alien World Direct >>


Steep, crazy climbing, tackling the cave at its very centre. Start on the right side of the pillar. (S3, 7b).</br>1) 13m, 6a. Climb the short groove, then up through two roofs, to belay on the left.</br>2) 10m, 6a. Traverse rightwards along a fault, then pull up and left to gain a hanging wall, belay at the top of this.</br>3) 10m, 6b. Climb leftwards and down slightly, to make a precarious bridge onto the horn; then get established on it, using a distant undercut. Follow a line of undercuts to gain the corner above, belaying on the thread as for The Abyss.</br>4) 12m, 5b. As for The Abyss.
FA. Andy Long, Crispin Waddy 1990's

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