 The Anti Matterhorn
| 3 Stars DWS Reachy Strong Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
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Adjacent Routes
<< The One-eyed Man < The Abyss | Alien World/Blind Vision > Alien World Direct >>
Steep, crazy climbing, tackling the cave at its very centre. Start on the right side of the pillar. (S3, 7b).
1) 13m, 6a. Climb the short groove, then up through two roofs, to belay on the left.
2) 10m, 6a. Traverse rightwards along a fault, then pull up and left to gain a hanging wall, belay at the top of this.
3) 10m, 6b. Climb leftwards and down slightly, to make a precarious bridge onto the horn; then get established on it, using a distant undercut. Follow a line of undercuts to gain the corner above, belaying on the thread as for The Abyss.
4) 12m, 5b. As for The Abyss.
FA. Andy Long, Crispin Waddy 1990’s
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