Carnage Left-hand

3 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
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A magnificent route for the grade taking in some impressive positions. Start up right below a large hanging corner.
1) 5b, 17m. Climb the corner but move left by the tree onto a slab. Move up then drop down leftwards to a ledge.
2) 5b, 20m. Traverse delicately leftwards to the Carnage belay.
3) 5b (6b free), 20m. As for Carnage pitch 2 to the break. Traverse this break leftwards then move up to a corner. Climb up and step left onto the arete above everything. Finish direct.
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (1pt) 1967. FFA. Unknown

USER COMMENTS

p1: Description does not quite match what we found. There are several trees/saplings. Climb up to them and onto the grassy ledge. Walk along this behind the trees, then drop down to ledge and belay.
p3: Peg felt rock solid (despite comments about it under Carnage).
Richard Connors - 04/May/09

First few moves offthe ground were really hard for 5b, in fact I'd say good 5c. It looked like some holds had broken off in the middle of the corner and we had to coem out from right down bottom left. Not sure if this is a recent development or we were just being dumb, but it felt far harder than anythign else on the route.
Otherwise, superb. Agree with Rochard connors' comments - theres a whole wood up there!
Si dH - 15/Jul/09

When bottomn left, I should clarify I don't mean from down below the ledge (that would be really stupid), I just mean going through the steepest bit of the corner on the left hand side.
Si dH - 15/Jul/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
    hard E2 0 of 5
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    hard E1 0 of 5
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    hard 5b 0 of 4
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