3 Stars
 E5 6b

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The right-hand side of the leaning buttress above the first waterfall is home to one of Gordale's finest adventures. 1) 6b, 22m. Start just left of the arete and pull up and right around it. Climb via a crack to the overlap and a bolt above it. Pull over and continue up the wall to the break and move right to a cave - possible belay, but it is poor. Pull out of the cave (peg) and move up to a bolt. Climb the flake above to a break with difficulty, then the corner above to a belay. 2) 5c, 12m. Move up onto the ledge on the right before moving left to a crack. Finish up the crack.
FFA. Dougie Hall 1982. FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard (1pt) 3.1973


Did this 10 years ago and only now am able to speak of the terrors encountered. Only sort of joking. First pitch is like climbing rubble without gear and belay isn't much better. However, only gets better from there. 2nd pitch is very hard but well protected with good climbing and 3rd pitch is awesome with exposed, great moves. An atmospheric route.
Richard White - 27/Jun/03

eh? first pitch is good rock and good gear. Did you go the right way? Pretty reasonable to run 1st two pitches together, and will make the (inevitable) fall off the crux less painful with more rope out. Safe but absolutely nails!
Ged Desforges - 07/Aug/06

The crux is more technical than powerful. If you use the right holds in the right way... The hard move is just above a solid bolt.
Simon Witcher - 19/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
    hard E6 0 of 5
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