Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
29m. An improbable-looking pitch tracing a sweeping line up the hanging wall. Start down and right of Ivy Groove and climb the wall to a bulge (2 bolts). Pull over into the bottom of Ivy Groove then move out right and follow the intricate curving line. Take care to avoid rope drag.
Originally 7b+, however lost a crucial hold and became unclimable. A new hold was re glued at the crux together with the addition of an extra bolt. This new hold now makes the crux quite a bit easier than the original hence a suggested grade of 7b
This route was linked into the top of Masochism tango by moving up and right after the crux to give a monster sustained top end 7b+ . Revitalised 3 stars . Mick Johnston Mat Troilett 1999
The original route is probably soft 7b+ with the new glued hold.
IMO original version is a superb route with continuously interesting climbing in a great position and worth 3 stars. As to grade I don't really know. Felt similar to indecent exposure which I did a few weeks earlier so hard 7b or easy 7b+ (sitting on the fence). Btw not having been on it originally the repair job seems very tidy.
The rock around the bolt before the crux has shattered, the bolt is still in and may take a fall, but needs replacing.