Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
A mind-blowing single pitch taking in the full height of the wall right of the Cave Routes. Climb the overhanging wide crack and narrowing groove with difficultly to a ledge and lower-off. Climb up the wall above to a small niche and move right and up before trending left to a lower-off. Move up to the large overhang and take the right-hand line of bolts to some wildly-positioned moves before the lower-off. Lower off in two stages if you don't have an 80m rope. It is also worth 7c+ if started up Last Dog.
Run both pitches together for a superb 40m tick
Even with the 'Last Dog', rather than the original start, it still felt like 7C to the first lower off. Way harder than the likes of 50 for 5 or Obsession.
Following from Paul's comment, it felt like more than a '+' grade difference between Last Dog and finishing beneath the roof.
"Rope drag can be a problem" - if you were to climb it as two (or even three) pitches, what grade would the top pitch be in it's own right?
First pitch (with Last Dog start) is just about 7c. If only 7b+, then Last Dog is 7a.
Last Dog must be 7a then.
7b+ to the roof, and a recently discovered jug right at the top brings the full pitch down to 7b+/7c. 7c+ if you wear blinkers and fight up the crack (as originally done). A 70m rope reaches the ground.