PierrepointRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
Adjacent Routes
40m. A mind-blowing pitch taking in the full height of the wall right of the Cave Routes. The original start is right of Last Dog but it is now common, more pleasant and easier to start up Last Dog. From the lower-off of Last Dog climb up the wall with a couple of reachy moves before the small niche. Move right and up before trending left to a lower-off (7b+ to this point). Move up to the bulge and take the right-hand line of bolts to some wildly-positioned moves before the belay. Lower off in two stages if you don't have an 80m rope. Rope drag can be a problem. The best way of getting around this is to climb Last Dog on one rope, then discard it and continue on a second, or re-thread the Last Dog belay without weighting it. USER COMMENTS
Run both pitches together for a superb 40m tick
Even with the 'Last Dog', rather than the original start, it still felt like 7C to the first lower off. Way harder than the likes of 50 for 5 or Obsession.
Following from Paul's comment, it felt like more than a '+' grade difference between Last Dog and finishing beneath the roof.
"Rope drag can be a problem" - if you were to climb it as two (or even three) pitches, what grade would the top pitch be in it's own right?
First pitch (with Last Dog start) is just about 7c. If only 7b+, then Last Dog is 7a.
Last Dog must be 7a then.
7b+ to the roof, and a recently discovered jug right at the top brings the full pitch down to 7b+/7c. 7c+ if you wear blinkers and fight up the crack (as originally done). A 70m rope reaches the ground. |