Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 11
Hard moves past the overhang on the right-hand side of the face gain the break. Then step right to climb the arete on its left-hand side. Gear is minimal.
This is well undergraded. A yellow alien in the pocket/eye offers the only protection on the crux, which involves a dyno/slap off 2 poor slopey crimps above a nasty landing. Hard moves, which one of our team felt could be low 6b (and I'd agree with them), lead to much easier climbing above.
I shouldn't comment cos I couldn't do it but I tried hard for a while. I tried it two ways, one as above and one via a strenuous undercut, neither which I could pull off. I wouldn't give it E2 though as I fell off twice on gear in the crack and was fine. I will go back and work out the sequence but if anyone has any advice I've not ethics...
its not 6a and you don't need to slap for the break...