The Crease

1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Wrinkled Wall < Old and Wrinkled  |  Sinuous Crack > Cleopatra >>


12m. Precarious climbing, on sloping holds, up the right-hand side of the wall, starting up the short crack/slot and then continuing in the same line. Avoid the arete for the full effect.
FA. Mark Davies 1979

USER COMMENTS

soloed it staight off, VS4C is what it felt like.
steve - 06/Apr/02

Seemed very easy - no 5a climbing - indeterminate line and lichen on holds makes this a no star route.
I soloed it but assuming no gear: HVS 4b?
stp - 18/May/02

I can't believe you guys!: 5a seems the correct grade to me - I think the other 2 comments about it being very easy are either showing off or used to harder extreme climbing. This is a serious route, no gear - E1 also seems correct to me
michael simpson - 15/Oct/02

I'm going for top end HVS 5a. There are solid cam runners about a 6 inches to a foot left of the chock which can be placed without using the arete or moving off the direct line up from the wide crack.
Steve C - 12/Oct/03

If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds.
Ashley - 13/Oct/03

Felt very precarious, although the arete is very reachable. I couldn't find any gear above half height.
Roberto - 09/Dec/03

Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think
moomin lord - 11/Oct/04

A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade
Mark C - 26/Apr/05

My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear.
stonewall - 02/May/05

Felt more like HVS.
chris s - 03/May/05

A soft touch at E1 I thought. The crux move to the final break is maybe 5a, maybe 4c. A good nut placement low down, then a good friend higher up which i think just protects the crux. I'd give it HVS. The line seemed obvious to me - up the slab staying left of the crack. Well worth a star or two.
Leeds Ben - 09/Aug/05

This is hard 4c or easy 5a. The holds slope so the slight runout can heighten the feeling of insecurity. However the gear will stop you so this is not really serious. 3 Pebble is at least a grade harder.HVS.
Ian Jones - 05/Sep/05

This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer.
drcorbasisgod - 07/Oct/05

another calssic debate about the grade. take it all with a pinch of salt and give it e1 as the book says. all grades are wrong as different people will find the route a grade above or below the given one anyway.
a good route no arete and no gear cool cool
martin cleaver - 13/Oct/05

3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once!
Joe - 09/Jul/06

3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS.
Paul Phillips - 16/Aug/06

Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p.
Joe - 20/Sep/06

Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arête, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say.
Che Gannarelli - 27/Oct/06

I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1.
Paul Tomo - 24/Jul/07

Easier and more gear than Sunset Slab. Positivity can be found if looked for and the reach to the penultimate break has a variety of 4c solutions, even for those of average stature or less.
DuzWalker - 01/Oct/07

nice and easy problem (ps i'm short)
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

i think the grade on this is correct having thought about it its gets its e grade because the top move/s are unprotected and you would hit the deck you wont hit the deck if you can climb a 5a slab, i made the top reach no probs and iam short, having said that if your tall the top moves are never in doubt and you could possibly miss the crux all together VS5a for long un's
shaun walby - 28/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 174
    hard E2 0 of 57
    E2 0 of 57
    easy E2 1 of 57
    hard E1 0 of 57
    E1 26 of 57
    easy E1 16 of 57
    hard HVS 14 of 57
    HVS 0 of 57
    easy HVS 0 of 57
    hard 5b 0 of 59
    5b 0 of 59
    easy 5b 1 of 59
    hard 5a 2 of 59
    5a 37 of 59
    easy 5a 13 of 59
    hard 4c 6 of 59
    4c 0 of 59
    easy 4c 0 of 59
    3 Stars 4 of 58
    2 Stars 17 of 58
    1 Star 29 of 58
    0 Stars 5 of 58
    Bag of ..... 3 of 58

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