Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 48
8m. Tackle the thin crack and bulging wall. Trend right to finish.
Seconded this and my god its hard, the starting crack is worth about 6a in anybodys money! surmounting the impossible looking bulging wall is quite easy using a hidden hold that you can't see from the ground.
Never worth 6a! Its 5b and obvious at that.
The starting crack is quite hard but not desperate. The first undercut move is obviuos and easy at 5B and well protected. The last section is where it gets hard and a bit insecure, painful jamming and a reach and a move up on slopers made it feel top end E1/E2 type climbing but it may feel easier when cold. Weel worth trying for yourself though.
I graded the route HVS 5B when I did first ascent in 1981 with the late Trevor Pilling.
Much better and more involved than it looks - HVS 5b is sort of logical (basically 3 5b moves well protected) but they're hard 5b, its steep and it's really pumpy (for such a tiny weeny route), so I don't think many HVS leaders would succeed.