Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
The thin stuck-on tufa provides a butch classic. A crafty knee-bar aids the starting sequence. The old 'chain grab' finish is no more now the chain has been replaced by rings.
The knee bar is next to useless if you are short, apart from making the last clip easier
Prob 7c even if you dont use the knee bar.
Girls, girls, girls, its about V Diff up to the knee bar anyway. OK may be VS.
i did the route 11 years ago when i was 18 i did the maximum at malham the day before i did kleptomania and kleptomania was definetly harder anyway whos lenthened the chain because that was the crux!
It's a much better route (and a bit harder) if you finish on the jug up and right, and clip the new crab to the right of the chain belay. Always felt odd with the hardest move being grabbing the chain. Going to the jug makes it feel less like using a point of aid.
Why chop the chain it was done with the chain, if someone doesnt aggree with the chain then dont use it. PS the chain is now gone.