Kleptomania

2 Stars
Strong
 8a

Adjacent Routes
<< Superbowl < Joe's Spork  |  Angel Eyes > Tonto >>


The thin stuck-on tufa provides a butch classic. A crafty knee-bar aids the starting sequence. The old 'chain grab' finish is no more now the chain has been replaced by rings.
FA. Glen Sutcliffe 21.10.1990

USER COMMENTS

The knee bar is next to useless if you are short, apart from making the last clip easier
Rupert - 20/Apr/02

Prob 7c even if you dont use the knee bar.
Steve Dunning - 10/Jun/02

Girls, girls, girls, its about V Diff up to the knee bar anyway. OK may be VS.
Dave - 18/Aug/02

i did the route 11 years ago when i was 18 i did the maximum at malham the day before i did kleptomania and kleptomania was definetly harder anyway whos lenthened the chain because that was the crux!
sam watt - 31/Aug/03

It's a much better route (and a bit harder) if you finish on the jug up and right, and clip the new crab to the right of the chain belay. Always felt odd with the hardest move being grabbing the chain. Going to the jug makes it feel less like using a point of aid.
RupertD - 24/Aug/05

Why chop the chain it was done with the chain, if someone doesnt aggree with the chain then dont use it. PS the chain is now gone.
Dirt - 08/May/06

slightly ironic
Nick Verney - 09/May/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 21
    hard 8a+ 0 of 14
    8a+ 0 of 14
    easy 8a+ 0 of 14
    hard 8a 0 of 14
    8a 9 of 14
    easy 8a 3 of 14
    hard 7c+ 2 of 14
    7c+ 0 of 14
    easy 7c+ 0 of 14
    3 Stars 5 of 7
    2 Stars 2 of 7
    1 Star 0 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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