Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 119
The rounded rib to the right of the crack leads steeply to a ledge where a holly competes for space. Lean awkwardly left to access good lumpy holds on the final wall and a short layback to finish.
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Technical to start and quite serious off the ledge (unless you cheat and use side runners behind the holly). I'm surprised this is regarded as a soft onsight HVS by many.
Wouldn't be cheating to put runners in behind the holly. It'd just be horrible. Especially as there is a half-decent wire placement in the flake opposite. I trusted it anyway.Class route!
a Beautiful delicate start leads to good gear, a strenous pull/leap to a good horn off a smear takes you level with the top of the crack of neb buttress and more bomber gear. From here the crux awaits you can get a friend 2 placed sideways in the flake/slot opposite the holly. then a high rockover and some small crimps enable the hanging flake to be grasped and a sprint to victory up excellent holds.
It's a little easier to step left onto the boss out left, rather than using it as a handhold. Also, there's nothing wrong with runners behind the holly, it's not off route.
crap line, good top bit
I enjoyed this route along. Nothing wrong with a medium hex behind the holly, if nothing else to protect you while you lean across and up to place a nut in the final crack. With both pieces of gear in situ you can swing onto the big hold with confidence, and calmly walk up the wall. Easy for HVS but merits the grade for the airy feel to the crux. Great fun!
Lovely. Didn't feel as bold as the guide suggests. Bomber gear where you need it. Top moves were very pleasant.
nice and easy problem
I think your cheating if you go too near the holly, like I did! Easy for HVS
The fingery move isn't onto a ledge, it is onto a blocky flake on the left. Lower section is a bit aimless but the top is superb.
The 'blocky flake' is the 'ledge'.
shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it and had to commit to the move without it hang off one hand then try and protect the move and climb....fully entertaining.