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Quality and varied crack and groove work and maybe only E1 5b for grit aficionados. Start up the steep groove on the left side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 28m. Climb the groove then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing.
FA. J.Brown, C.Davies 1960