Silly Arete

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Monkey Puzzle/Pincushion < Pincushion  |  Fingerlicker > Barbarian >>


A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you.
FA. H.Pasquill, J.Nutall, R.Evans 18.4.1971

USER COMMENTS

A tricky move left ???. I think you mean right
Mike Lewis - 02/Aug/10

I went up to the roof, reached high and left for small sharp holds and pulled! Great line. Preferred it to Pincushion.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

Oh yes, RIGHT onto the arete at the bottom!
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard E2 0 of 0
    E2 0 of 0
    easy E2 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    hard 5c 0 of 0
    5c 0 of 0
    easy 5c 0 of 0
    hard 5b 0 of 0
    5b 0 of 0
    easy 5b 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.