<< Pincushion < Silly Arete | Barbarian > Scratch >>
Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one, but perhaps not as hard as its reputation suggests. Start below the big corner of Barbarian.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up left through a narrow chimney to gain the finger crack. Power impressively up this, not forgetting to place runners, to a small roof. Pull over, then climb up and traverse right to the belay on Barbarian.
2) 6a, 20m. Climb Barbarian through an overlap, then move left across the wall to gain Silly Arete. Finish up this.
FA. R.James, D.Jones (aid) 1964, FFA. P.Livesey, J.Lawrence 1975