<< Pincushion < Silly Arete | Barbarian > Scratch >>
Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one, but perhaps not as hard as its reputation suggests. Start below the big corner of Barbarian and scramble up to the tree at the base of the crack.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up left through a narrow chimney to gain the finger-crack. Power impressively up this, not forgetting to place runners, to a small roof. Make a testing move left round this and traverse right to the belay on Barbarian.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb Barbarian for 4m through an overlap, then move left across the wall on surprisingly good holds past a peg (?) to gain Silly Arete. Finish up this.
FA. R.James, D.Jones (some aid) 2.1964
FFA. P.Livesey, J.Lawrence 11.5.1975