<< Silly Arete < Fingerlicker | Scratch > Spare Rib >>
The huge corner gives great climbing. Start below the corner.
1) 10m. Scramble up to the tree below the slab.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb the slabby right wall of the corner until you are forced to move left into it. Follow this until you can pull out left onto a ledge belay.
3) 5b, 20m. A hard move round the overlap on the left wall leads to better holds in the corner. Take the crack that runs up the slabby right wall to the next huge roof. The climbing through this is surprisingly easy to the lip. Pull around the lip with difficulty, then move up and left to a ledge (possibly belay if you are knackered). Step back right into the main groove and climb to the top past a wobbly hold.
FA. C.Jones and party (some aid) 16.8.1958. FFA. J.Brown 1960s
2nd to Dr John 1993 ish, stupidly hard at top overhang, felt sick.
Andy Hulland - 28/Dec/11
Changed from E1 5b ** to E1 5b ***, 100% of 4 votes for ***
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13
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