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The approach is a little awkward, but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the undergrowth to a sloping ledge below the steep wall.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up a shallow groove to a tiny ledge. Move round the rib on the left to a niche. Pull out left again round a rib, then climb a groove to a small roof. Heave round this then use a crack on the left to move up to a well-positioned stance below the intimidating groove.
2) 5c, 20m. Move right and climb the brilliant and very sustained groove with a hard pull to finish.
FA. J.Brown, D.Thomas (some aid) 2.6.1961
Difficult to get into, and some loose rock on pitch 1. Personally I found the Ground Up guide (and the description above) slightly misleading: the start is basically straight up and then right, not left as it says. All that being said, you won't regret it because the overhanging groove at the top is so damn good!!
Chris Parson - 31/May/10
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