The Neb Direct
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A great route with a fine open first pitch and a sensational and brutal final roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner. Photo on page 18.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay.
2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock above to gain the large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack.
3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet boulder problem crack to a ledge.
4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Jam easily through this and pull round the lip. Fight up the crack in the headwall to a tough top out and thank the Lord it was that short!
4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish.
FA. (The Neb) J.Brown. D.Thomas 1961. FFA. (Direct) H.Barber, M.Lewis, H.Davies 1968