The Neb Direct

2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Zukator < Clapton's Crack  |  Christmas Curry (Original) > Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate >>


A great route with a fine, open first pitch and a sensational and brutal final roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay.
2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock above to gain the large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack.
3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet boulder problem crack to a ledge.
4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Getting established in the top crack is the crux, after which a good fight on the headwall leads to a tough top-out.
4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish.
FA. (The Neb) J.Brown. D.Thomas 6.1961. FFA. (Direct) H.Barber 1968

USER COMMENTS

Your description of pitch 1 is hopelessly out of date. see the current CC guide for an accurate description. Your first ascent details are also incorrect.
Mike Lewis - 06/Jun/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E5 0 of 1
    E5 0 of 1
    easy E5 0 of 1
    hard E4 0 of 1
    E4 0 of 1
    easy E4 1 of 1
    hard E3 0 of 1
    E3 0 of 1
    easy E3 0 of 1
    hard 6b 0 of 1
    6b 0 of 1
    easy 6b 0 of 1
    hard 6a 1 of 1
    6a 0 of 1
    easy 6a 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 1 of 1
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