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The steep gully is better than it appears, and stays dry in light rain. Start just to the right of The Fang below the deep corner.
1) 5a, 35m. Climb the chimney and pull around the overhang on its right. Continue over more bulges to a tree belay on the right. Most people abseil off at this point.
2) 4b, 12m. The short arete leads to another tree belay just below the top. Either scramble up the gully or abseil off this.
FA. J.Brown, C.Davies 23.4.1961