| E2 5c|
<< The Weaver < Cream | Void > Grim Wall Direct >>
Possibly the most famous route at Tremadog. It is showing signs of over-climbing, and does get very chalky, but the positions and line are amazing. Start up and right of One Step in the clouds.
1) 5a, 15m. Climb a groove then step onto a slab on the right. Follow a corner up left then move left again to the belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Polished and chalky. Climb up right to a difficult crack which leads to a spike. Make hard moves up to the base of the infamous Ochre Slab. Climb the slab then move left and up to an enclosed cave stance.
3) 5b, 20m. Traverse left then pull diagonally leftwards over a roof onto another hanging slab. Continue left past more tricky moves to the final layback corner. Swarm up this to a comfy stance on One Step..
4) 4b, 15m. As for One Step in the Clouds.
FA. J.Brown, C.Davies 1960
It appears common to link pitches 1 and 2, although I didn't realise this until my second reached the belay and told me we'd done the 5c bit!! That was a nice surprise. But, there was another one in store as the third pitch is a bit of a head-scratcher, with some blind moves. Superb route.
Chris Parson - 31/May/10
Excellent sustained climbing. As mentioned above, Pitch 3 was harder to me too.
ianb - 03/May/11
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