| E2 5c|
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The most famous route at Tremadog is showing signs of over-climbing, and does get very chalky since much of it never gets rained on, but the positions and line are phenomenal. Start up and right of One Step in the Clouds on a large flake.
1) 5a, 15m. Step off the flake and climb a groove, then step onto a slab on the right. Follow a corner up and left then move left again to the belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb up right past a small spike to a difficult crack which leads to a massive spike. Make hard moves up to the base of a groove. Another brave move right leads onto the infamous Ochre Slab. Climb the slab then move left into another groove. At its top, move left below the roof to gain the cave stance. Up to this point can often be climbed in light rain, then you can abseil off.
3) 5b, 20m. Traverse left, then pull diagonally leftwards over a roof onto another hanging slab. Continue left to the final layback corner (some people find getting into this the crux), then swarm up the crack to the belay on One Step...
4) 4b, 15m. Move up and right to just left of the flake of One Step in the Clouds and make thin moves up the wall to a memorable mantelshelf to gain a large ledge.
FA. J.Brown, C.Davies 26.3.1960
It appears common to link pitches 1 and 2, although I didn't realise this until my second reached the belay and told me we'd done the 5c bit!! That was a nice surprise. But, there was another one in store as the third pitch is a bit of a head-scratcher, with some blind moves. Superb route.
Chris Parson - 31/May/10
Excellent sustained climbing. As mentioned above, Pitch 3 was harder to me too.
ianb - 03/May/11
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