Merlin Direct Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Daddy Cool/The Sting < Reinetta  |  Merlin > Geireagle >>


Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb left up a crack to an overhang. Now make a hard move up and right up two cracks and into the base of a groove. An easier alternative is to step left at the overhang and then move up right along a ramp to the base of the groove. Climb the groove to an exciting exit left at the top to a belay.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the slab up and left to the base of a wide crack. Climb this to where it gets too wide and step out right onto the arete and follow easier ground up and left to a ledge below a steepening crack. Arrange gear and step left onto the headwall to gain a steep crack on the left which leads to the top.
FA. H.Smith 1959

USER COMMENTS

Changed from HVS 5a ** to HVS 5a ***, 50% of 4 votes for ***
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard E1 0 of 4
    E1 0 of 4
    easy E1 0 of 4
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    hard 4c 0 of 4
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    3 Stars 2 of 4
    2 Stars 2 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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