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An extra-polished first pitch leads to more-open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall.
1) 5a, 15m. The corner is slippery and awkward - big gear needed. Belay on a ledge.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb a crack to a ledge, then move up to another ledge. A short groove leads to a tree belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the slab until tricky moves lead up left to gain the arete. This leads to the top.
FA. D.Jones, H.Morris, G.Williams 1962