Oberon

1 Stars
 S 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Vulture < Y Broga  |  Boo Boo Left-hand > Cynchwyr/Rio >>


A varied route with commodious stances and a tricky first pitch.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the polished crack on the right of the slab, which eases at a ledge at half-height. Follow the easier crack up leftwards to a step left which leads to a large ledge.
1a) 15m. The technical thin crack can be avoided by climbing a groove on the right. This is more in-keeping with the rest of the route.
2) 4a, 15m. Climb up behind the tree to the overhanging chimney on the left. Steep squirmy moves and bridging gain a slab and a large ledge system.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the slabby groove on the left to a wall. Turn right and follow easy ground to a final wide corner-crack (optional belay). A difficult move to enter the corner is followed by more slippery moves up the corner that leads to the top.
FA. A.Moulam, J.Neill, J.Glass, P.Chapman 11.1955

USER COMMENTS

solo 1993 ish, brilliant!
Andy Hulland - 28/Dec/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard HS 0 of 2
    HS 0 of 2
    easy HS 0 of 2
    hard S 0 of 2
    S 0 of 2
    easy S 0 of 2
    hard HVD 2 of 2
    HVD 0 of 2
    easy HVD 0 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    hard 4b 0 of 2
    4b 0 of 2
    easy 4b 0 of 2
    hard 4a 2 of 2
    4a 0 of 2
    easy 4a 0 of 2
    3 Stars 2 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 0 of 2
    0 Stars 0 of 2
    Bag of ..... 0 of 2

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.