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A technical and bold first pitch gives access to the well-positioned upper flake-crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Start at the foot of the arete. Climb initially just on the right of the arete, switching back left after a couple of metres to reach a ledge and thin crack (this point can be gained more easily from the gully on the left). Arrange small wires then balance up the remaining arete to gain a large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove above the belay to a ledge. Make a steep move to gain a delightful slab/rib. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the final slab. Either climb straight up to the base of the leaning flake/crack and climb this to an exciting finish, or take the slabby arete on the right as for Mr Ranger and traverse left to belay off the tree.
FA. G.Hodgkiss, M.Shannon 24.3.1961