Kirkus Direct

2 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Ordinary Route < Kirkus Route  |  Central Variant > None >>

A good companion which is probably less direct than the original route. Start below the right-hand side of the slab.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a short slab (often wet) then a steep section above. Gain and follow a groove which leads up right until you can swing left past flakes and drop down to gain the stance of Kirkus Route.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse left to reach a small corner. Climb this then step right onto a rib. Follow a crack and move left into another groove which leads to the mid-height break on Kirkus Route.
3) 5b, 40m. A long pitch. Climb into the corner on the right and follow it to an overhang. Move left to a crack and climb this, then step left. Climb the slab left of the corner to the upper break. Move right into a slim groove and climb this to the top.
FA. V.Ridgeway and party 1951


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