Kirkus Direct

2 Stars
Technical
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Ordinary Route < Kirkus Route  |  Central Variant > None >>


A good companion which is probably less direct than the original route. Start below the right-hand side of the slab.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a short slab (often wet) then a steep section above. Gain and follow a groove which leads up right until you can swing left past flakes and drop down to gain the stance of Kirkus Route.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse left to reach a small corner. Climb this then step right onto a rib. Follow a crack and move left into another groove which leads to the mid-height break on Kirkus Route.
3) 5b, 40m. A long pitch. Climb into the corner on the right and follow it to an overhang. Move left to a crack and climb this, then step left. Climb the slab left of the corner to the upper break. Move right into a slim groove and climb this to the top.
FA. V.Ridgeway and party 1951

USER COMMENTS

Changed from HVS 5b * to HVS 5b **, 100% of 1 vote for **
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 5
    hard E1 0 of 3
    E1 0 of 3
    easy E1 0 of 3
    hard HVS 2 of 3
    HVS 1 of 3
    easy HVS 0 of 3
    hard VS 0 of 3
    VS 0 of 3
    easy VS 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 1 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 1 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
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