<< Llithrig < Serth | Chimney Route > Diglyph >>
The original route of the East Buttress. It follows a series of huge stepped-corners. Start to the right of the main crack/corner of Sunset Crack at a stepped left-facing groove leading up to the base of the main part of the cliff.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb leftwards over ledges and follow a corner to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. The rib on the right leads to a break-line that leads right to below a short steep corner. Tricky moves up this gain The Conservatory - a large grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner past a ledge on the right and enter the chimney above - generally easy but steep and intimidating - to belay on the large pillar.
4) 5a, 25m. The stepped corner on the right leads with difficulty to the top. An impressive pitch for its time.
FA. A.Pigott and party 1927