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A superbly-positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. It is steep, well protected and has plenty of rests. Start about 12m right of the abseil, where a pinnacle rests against the overhangs.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up the left side of the pinnacle and traverse left below a steepening for 3m to reach a thin crack. Tricky moves up this lead to a stance on ledges above.
2) 5b, 28m. Follow the groove above and pull round the overhang with interest to good holds on the left. These now lead out leftwards towards the arete. Climb up for a few metres before a delicate traverse leads back to the main crack. The crack is short and steep but thankfully blessed with huge holds and spike runners. At its top there is a ledge, traverse out left again to the arete. Climb up before making a few tricky moves back right. A couple of steep and intimidating moves on buckets lead to the top.
FA. J.Brown, H.Smith, J.Smith 25.10.1958
Wonderful, beautiful route. One of the best I've done. But NOT E2, ever.
Just Another Dave - 11/Jun/11
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