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The best of the bunch takes a direct line up the Boulder. With modern protection it is not as fierce as it was once thought and there is gear for the hardest moves.
1) 5c, 40m. Cross a grass ledge to a groove and climb this to a small overhang at its top. Traverse up and left to a small ledge then the wall above. Step right and go up to a flake. Put gear in this then head for the Boulder traverse. Belay a little higher.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb direct to a shallow groove. This gives some tricky moves before easier ground leads to the top. Belay well back with care.
FA. P.Crewe, B.Ingle 1963 (P2) C.Phillips, P.Minks 1969