The Black Cleft
<< The Boulder < The Boldest | Longland's Climb > Sheaf >>
Horrific and slippery climbing up the compellingly-obvious line - you have to really want to climb this one. The corner is usually wet in a summer drought, and really wet at other times so expect to get filthy. In winter it can offer a great ice route - VII,7 mixed with thin ice on the first pitch.
1) 15m. Climb the right-hand edge of a pillar, left of the main corner and usually drier, and belay on the top.
2) 5c, 20m. Move into the corner and start swimming upwards to an optional stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Continue in the same damp line past some hanging gardens and a small overhang. Continue up then step left to a belay and junction with The Boulder.
4) 5a, 15m. Pitch 3 of The Boulder.
5) 25m. Pitch 4 of The Boulder.
FA. J.Brown, D.Whillans 1952