<< The Boldest < The Black Cleft | Sheaf > West Buttress Eliminate >>
A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft and scramble across easy ground to a ledge below the corner proper.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner to a chimney.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better).
3) 30m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a ledge on the right.
4) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top.
FA. J.Longland and party 1928
I did this route in 1968/69 it was absolutely wonderful - best climb I ever made by no means the hardest.
MOJarrett - 05/May/13
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