Sheaf

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Black Cleft < Longland's Climb  |  West Buttress Eliminate > White Slab >>


A complex line that weaves up the West Buttress at a relatively friendly grade. Start at the base of the Eastern Terrace, just above a wet and grassy crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb a crack to a small stance under the rib of White Slab. This can also be reached from the base of Longland's.
2) 4c, 12m. Move right, then pull round onto the slab. Move right again, then descend with difficulty (Linnell's Leap). To a belay at the bottom right of the slab.
3) 30m. Move down slightly and scramble rightwards then up grassy ledges and climb the short slab to a belay in a corner.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab to the arete and pull round to a big shared belay on White Slab.
5) 4c, 20m. Move right then up the groove to an overhang. Swing round this to another groove and follow it to a small ledge and belay in the corner above.
6) 4c, 20m. Stride right across the corner, then pull round onto a narrow slab. Climb this more easily to a stance.
7) 30m. More broken scrambling up grassy ledges leads past one more possible stance to the top.
FA. J.Campell, A.Cox 17.10.1945

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