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One of the great Welsh Classics.
1) 5a, 35m. Make a delicate traverse across the lip over the overhangs to a groove.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb to the base of the slab.
3) 5a, 30m. Move up with difficulty to the arete (Linnell's Leap in reverse). Climb the arete to a spike, move right then back left into a groove. Move up to a belay.
4) 5c, 15m. Pull round the arete and make a thin traverse across the slab, then move up to a belay. Alternatively, lasso a small spike and tension across then up to the same belay (making the route a great E1 5b).
5) 5a, 35m. Climb the edge of the slab, detour right then back left and up to a ledge.
6) 4c, 35m. Move left then up to a ledge (possible belay). Pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top - as for Longland's.
FA. R.Moseley, J.Smith 1956