Great Bow Combination

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< West Buttress Eliminate < White Slab  |  Bloody Slab > Slanting Chimney >>


A brilliant combination of pitches taking the best line up this side of the buttress. Start at a small pillar below a left-facing capped corner.
1) 4c, 45m. Climb onto the slab, step left to a groove which leads to a cave and ledge.
2) 4b, 12m. Pull around to the right then up to a stance.
3) 5a, 35m. Make a hard traverse leftwards along the break - low is harder, high is scarier. Continue to a crack which leads to a ledge on the left edge of the slab.
4) 4b, 25m. Steady climbing up the slab edge to another well-positioned stance.
5) 35m. Pull right back onto Great Slab and climb the rib to the top.
Great Slab - A great route on its own. Instead of belaying on pitch 2 above, break right across the slab to the far corner. This gives a few tricky moves before much easier climbing leads in three pitches to the top.
FA. C.Kirkus, G.Macphee 1930

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