Orpheus

1 Stars

Strong

Fluttery

E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Rib and Slab < Rift Wall | Yellow Groove > Yellow Wall >>

An exciting climb starting at 2 quartz bands.
1) 5b, 24m. Climb diagonally left to a shallow scoop (runner). Traverse right for 6m across the slab to a rest on the arete. Climb up on pockets to a step left into a niche. Step back right and pull through the overhang at the smallest point.
2) 4c, 15m. Climb rightwards up the short wall and climb easily to a small bay. From the right side of the bay move right and head straight up to the top of the pedestal.
3) 4c, 15m. Move right and climb the crack, passing an overhang. Follow the groove to the top.
FA. C.Phillips, R.Kirkwood, J.Arthy 1967

USER COMMENTS

Really quite poor. The bottom pitch is easy but serious and completely lacks line. Don't bother.
Jon Leighton - 25/Apr/10

I disagree. P1 is good enough for 1 star and is technically about right for the grade (albeit low end). Also, it has line if you consider line to involve taking the most natural way from the start point to the end point rather than following a straight line feature. If this pitch lacks line then so does almost every intricate trad wall climb!
harold walmsley - 23/May/10

I also enjoyed this route alot. Possible to abseil in one from the top of the route. There is gear all the way on the first pitch but whether you want to stop to place it is another matter. It may be best just to place some gear low down and then go for it.
Mark Grist - 10/May/11

hard E3
E3
easy E3

hard E2
E2
easy E2

hard E1
E1
easy E1

hard 5c
5c
easy 5c

hard 5b
5b
easy 5b

hard 5a
5a
easy 5a

3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
0 Stars
Bag of .....

Orpheus

USER COMMENTS

Route Grade Votings