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A classic outing, taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a scramble up the gully.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove, taking the left branch until a precarious step back right gains a small belay.
2) 4a, 23m. Follow the obvious corner crack and chimney to a large ledge.
3) 4b, 20m. Pull left onto the steep wall and reach a small groove. Follow this to a ledge.
FA. N.Morin, J.M.Edwards 1941